There is a painting framed over a booth at the Rio Grande Mexican Restaurant located at 914 4th Avenue in Huntington that perfectly captures the essence of the downtown favorite. The portrait is of an alluring senorita, reveling in revolutionary energy. The waving Mexican flag in the background is preceded in the foreground with the traditionally-garbed woman; her cotton blouse contrasting to the bandoliers of ammunition crossing her chest.

It was this juxtaposition that captured my attention the last time I dined at the restaurant. The piece, like many other works adorning the walls of the restaurant, are simply decorative in nature. Yet, somehow the picture’s combination of casual and confrontational seemed to encapsulate what Rio Grande is to the welcome diner.

The casual atmosphere is clear the minute one enters the restaurant, as an initial entry illustrates a softly lit dining area supplied with ample seating. In my many returns to the restaurant, there has always been a number of fellow patrons, but I have yet to feel cramped in the spacious accommodations.

Likewise, the staff is efficient with both orders and follow up. Almost immediately upon arriving at our table, we were presented with a basket of warm and crisp tortilla chips and zesty salsa. The chips are sturdy, not flimsy like the ones you may encounter exiting a plastic bag from your local grocer and “snap” with each bite, offering a nice counter-melody to the conversation at hand.

The salsa has a blended-thin consistency, coating chips with each dunking. The hints of onion and cilantro are present with every bite. Still, larger chunks of tomato can be found, making it a handsome reward for repeated dippers.

The portions are large, served on piping-hot plates. Obvious mexican fare like tacos and nachos are common; with the chicken or beef-stuffed Jumbo Burrito (despite it’s oxymoronic literal translation as ‘jumbo little burro’) standing out among the rest. House specials also dot the menu, such as the delightful triple chicken enchilada “Special Pollo.” Beef, chicken, seafood, and vegetarian menu items are all available and quite large in portion size at reasonable prices, most falling well below $10.

Rio Grande is also renowned for their drink selections. The 4th avenue location is also home to a fully-stocked bar. Margaritas are standard-issue to most patrons; well-crafted concoctions both on ice or frozen, with a good blend of lime. The restaurant also features a hardy selection of domestic and foreign beers, with the later leaning heavily on Latin American favorites like Dos Equis, Corona, and Negra Modelo.

Despite the excellent combination of surroundings, service, food and spirits, what makes Rio Grande a premier Huntington destination is its rather temporal qualities. A visit to Rio Grande has a way of slowing down the quickened pace of even the most harried Huntingtonian. Conversations linger, bounding from subject to subject. Laughter rolls and grows, cracking like distant thunder, while drinks seemingly multiply from one to two or three.

When one leaves the restaurant, their lives haven’t been changed; just injected with the warmth of a Monterrey evening. A little San Angel in the Appalachia.

Just like the portrait above the booth; a blend of serenity and spice.